The south face of Mont Blanc is among the most difficult to access faces of the Mont Blanc massif. The routes on this face are all demanding and the Central pillar of Freney is the jewel of the area.

Region

Italy - Mont Blanc

Duration

3 Days

Months

June, July, August

3,000 /personne for 1 person

Difficulties

Mountaineering Level 4 - Specialist
  • Be in good physical shape

  • Walk more than 15 hours

  • Carry a backpack weighing more than 8 kilos

  • Perfect knowledge and practice of mountaineering techniques and equipment

  • Technical level required: Very Difficult (TD) in mountaineering and 6 in rock climbing

Itinerary

Day 1

Departure from the Italian Val Veni around 1570 m. The first step is to reach the Monzino refuge at 2590 m in 2 to 3 hours. Small break for lunch and we continue until the second stage, until the Eccles bivouac, 3852 m. We spend the night in this small basic bivouac. 5 to 8 hours of walking.

D + 2300 m

Day 2

The day we have to be in shape. Departure around 3-4h00 in the morning from the bivouac. We easily reach the Eccles pass at 4041 m, then descend in 4-5 abseils on the Freney glacier. Short crossing to reach the foot of the Central Pillar of Freney, the bergschrund can sometimes be a problem. The day begins at this break and we attack the Bonington route. The difficulties will increase crescendo and arriving by candlelight will be the final bouquet. The void widens and the wall straightens. The last pitches are incredible. At the top of the pillar, a short 25-meter abseil makes continues the ascent to Mont Blanc de Courmayeur, 4748 m, then the summit of Mont Blanc 4808 m. We descend by the normal route of Mont Blanc to spend the night at the Goûter refuge, 3835 m. 15 to 20 hours of climbing.

D + 1200 m / D- 1000 m

Day 3

Descent by the normal route of Mont Blanc in 3 to 4 hours.

D- 1500 m

Included

  • A fully qualified and experienced IFMGA guide for the duration of your trip
  • Mountain rescue radio
  • Mandatory individual mountaineering safety equipment: harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe
  • Collective equipment necessary for progression and safety

Not included

  • Personal insurance covering the activity
  • All that is not included in "the price includes".
  • Transportation to the meeting point and from the point of separation

All Ecrins Prestige guides have gained the highest guiding qualification from the IFMGA and are certified to guide anywhere in the world

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