The Matterhorn, an emblematic mountain between Switzerland and Italy at an altitude of 4478 metres. The various ridges that make it up are all steep and airy. Climbing this mountain is an undertaking that requires training and determination.
There are three classic routes to climb the Matterhorn :
- The Hörnli ridge, the Swiss side and back.
- The Lion's Ridge, Italian side, round trip.
- And crossing the Lion ridge on the way up and the Hörnli ridge on the way down, described here in 2 days.
Switzerland - Italy
June, July, August, September
1,350€ /personne for 1 person
Mountaineering level 3: Advanced
Be in good physical shape
Carry a 6 to 8 kg backpack
Autonomous knowledge and practice of mountaineering techniques and equipment
Technical level required: Quite Difficult (AD) in mountaineering and 5 in climbing
Walk between 6 and 12 hours
Meet at Cervinia at 8.30 am from the Plan Maison cable car.
From Plan Maison, the top of the cable car, we start the walk to the Oriondé hut.
Lunch at the Oriondé Refuge (Duca degli Abruzzi) (2802m).
Then we attack the first rocky outcrops in the direction of the Lion's Pass, which is not very difficult at the moment. We stop along the way to fill up with water, as there is nothing at the refuge. When we arrive at the pass, we are at the foot of the Lion ridge, this is the one we climb to reach the Italian summit. The most difficult passages are equipped with fixed ropes and even ladders for the steepest parts.
The Carrel refuge, unguarded, is laid out like an eagle's nest at 3825m, we will spend the night there.
Simple dinner prepared by the guide (no possibility of half-board at the refuge).
Ascent: 1850m positive, for about 4 to 5 hours of walking*.
Wake up very early in the morning, around 2-3.00 am To be among the first roped party.
Your dream comes true with the ascent of the Matterhorn (4478m) via the Lion's ridge. A wire rope guides us to the Shroud (snow and ice slope). It is by its western edge that we reach a few bleachers and then through the Pic Tyndall Tyndall, which allows us to gain a foothold on the ridge (4080m). The ascent continues up to a narrow gap that is easily crossed to reach the last ropes, the dizzying panoramas of the Jordan ladder, which lead us to the summit.
The summit ridge is cramped, but together we will be able to touch the Cross erected in 1902 on this legendary summit.
Lunch - Picnic on the way down
Then it is the no less famous and vertiginous Hornlï ridge, on the Swiss side, which must be de-escalated. This ridge is easier than the Lion ridge, but is 1200m high: it is situated between the east and north faces, facing the valley of Zermatt. It leads to the Hörnli hut.
We only have to reach the Italian side by the Schwarsee cable car (700m of negative altitude difference) and then Klein Matterhorn.
A short descent on foot brings us to the border at the Testa Grigia hut and finally a last descent of 1500m by cable car allows us to reach Cervina and complete this crossing.
Ascent: 1000m positive, for about 4 to 5 hours of ascent to the summit and the same amount of time to come back down to the refuge (1200m descent).
- A fully qualified and experienced IFMGA guide for the duration of your trip
- Mountain rescue radio
- Mandatory individual mountaineering safety equipment: harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe
- Collective equipment necessary for progression and safety
- Personal insurance covering the activity
- Overnight accommodation described in the program
- Breakfasts, picnics and dinners included in the program
- The ticket(s) for the lifts/cable cars
- All that is not included in "the price includes".
- Transportation to the meeting point and from the point of separation
All Ecrins Prestige guides have gained the highest guiding qualification from the IFMGA and are certified to guide anywhere in the world